How to choose a motherboard: the most important rules. We select the motherboard for the processor The interaction of the motherboard and the processor

Hello friends! In today's article, we will show you how to choose the right case for your PC,after all, literally everything is important in a personal computer, including the metal box in which the components are located.

Over the past twenty years, I have seen a lot of computer cases and I can say with confidence that 99% of users when buying a finished computer do not pay enough attention to the case and choose it because of the design they like (stylish appearance), not consideringventilation options, power supply location (top or bottom), button location POWER and Front USB ports, and other important nuances.

And those users who want to save money and order according to their choice, often do not even preliminarily look at which case they will install the selected components, choosing the cheapest.

Already on the first day of using the PC, the person who bought the computer begins to note some inconveniences, for example, to turn on the system unit, you need bend over becausethe power button is located at the bottom of the front panel, the same goes for USB ports, you need to constantly bend your back to connect or disconnect a flash drive. More serious problems begin already during the operation of the PC - overheating and early exitcomponents out of order due to incorrect ergonomics of the selected PC case.

How to choose a PC case

Recently, more and more of our readers are starting, first of all, paying a lot of attention to the choice and video card, but the metal box is put aside for the last place, and is bought as cheaply as possible, since they believe that the case has little effect on anything, but this is fundamentally wrong! Yes, I also choose the shell for the computer filling at the very end, but it's not worth saving on it at all. And about why, I want to tell you. We will also talk about all kinds, types and characteristics of computer cases.

Case size

So, the first thing to look for when choosing a case is size. All internal filling should fit without any problems. To do this, you need to go to the manufacturer's website and see the size compatibility with other components.

The form factor of the motherboard must match the form factor of the case, or it can be smaller. But in no case should the motherboard be larger than the format supported by your case.

For example, only mini-ITX and Micro-ATX can be put into a Micro-ATX case, but ATX will no longer fit. Further, be sure to look at the dimensions of the power supply, the height of the processor cooler and the length of the video card. On the manufacturers' websites, you will 100% find the information you need.

Cooling system

After we have decided on the dimensions, it is imperative to look at the built-in and potentially possible cooling systems. For me personally, this is the most important parameter when choosing a metal box. Since the temperature of the internal components of the system depends on the airflow rate of the case. And the temperature, as you all know, directly depends on the performance and service life of all components. Regardless of the size, any case should have at least 2 built-in fans, one for blowing cold air into the system, the other for blowing out the hot stream from the inside of the system. The air cooler is located at the bottom of the hard drive bays. And the blow-out cooler is on top, near the processor cooler. This arrangement is directly related to physics - hot air always rises to the top.

There are cases with additional coolers on the top and bottom. This provides additional vertical airflow, which has a positive effect on the temperature inside the box.

But it's worth knowing that more doesn't mean better. The most optimal and ideal option, I think, is the presence of 4-5 coolers. 1-2 for blowing in near the HDD baskets, 1 for blowing from below and 2 for blowing from above. Additional fans are unnecessary. By the way, built-in coolers, as a rule, turn out to be very noisy and short-lived, not counting the top-end models. Therefore, I recommend purchasing good coolers separately. The main thing is that there are supposed seats in the case, like here.

Although, of course, you can shaman and cut them yourself, but this decision is absolutely not for everyone. And don't forget about the size of the coolers. Larger blades create more airflow at less RPM, which means they are more efficient and quieter.

Location of the power supply in the case

Consider the pros and cons of each. In the top position, the power supply takes air from the bottom, that is, from the inside of the system and releases it upward, from the system to the outside. The air inside the case is always hotter than outside, which means that the operating temperatures of the power supply with the top mount are always higher than that of the power supply with the bottom mount. This leads to a decrease in the resource of the unit itself. Of the advantages, I can only note that the power supply unit is less clogged with dust from above, but if there are good filters and the power supply unit from below, it will not clog up. This is why I recommend everyone to buy a case that offers a bottom mount for the power supply.

Since I mentioned dust filters, I will say a few words about them as well.

For some, this is not a key factor, but I think it is a very important point. Filters do not allow dust to easily penetrate into the system, of course, it will still accumulate there, but the clogging rate is much lower. Of course, if weekly cleaning of the system unit is not a problem for you, then you can ignore this criterion. Also, do not forget that dust directly affects the performance of any iron, increasing its operating temperature. And we all know perfectly well how this affects our PC.

In case you have a lot of hard drives, then don't forget to look at the number of drive slots.

Location of the POWER, RESET and USB ports on the front panel

Personally, I like this case. Location of the POWER button, RESET button, USB ports, and headphone and microphone outputsare on top, which is very convenient. Sit down at the computer and do not need to bend over to turn it on, restart if necessary, connect a flash drive, portable USB drive or headphones.

Cable management

The next important criterion when choosing is cable management.

It allows you to arrange all the wires in such a way that they do not dangle just like that inside the case. In my opinion, the thing is very convenient, but besides convenience it is also practical. The overwhelming amount of wires interferes with the air flow inside the system, which negatively affects the temperature. And, as you already understood, the temperature inside the iron shell is our everything. Although most cases are equipped with this function, in nature there are still specimens without it. I could not fail to mention this.

Additional features such as connectors for installing a processor cooler, a bezel for protection against damage, anti-vibration feet and others, I think, are far from necessary, but it's still nice if the case is equipped with all of these. Although this will directly affect the price of the product.

Since most of the models on the market are made of the same material and have wall thicknesses in the same range (0.5-1mm), I will not focus on this. I will only say that do not take a case with too thin walls, it will be very noisy.

As for the appearance, then this is a purely individual matter. The taste and color, as they say. But there is still one unspoken rule. Don't sacrifice functionality for beauty. For example, there are very stylish cases in which the fresh air supply is limited by the front panel. It is not worth taking such housings due to poor airflow.

Assembling or upgrading a computer is a solution to a problem with several inputs, and the result should satisfy all "Wishlist" as much as possible and keep within all the "mess" so as not to exhaust the family budget. Well, let's start talking about the parts that make up any computer from the basics, from the basis, from the mother of our systems. As you understand, today we will talk about how to choose a motherboard, which model can be the best purchase, what you can save on without overpaying for unnecessary functions. Today is the first part, and we will consider the lower and middle price range, leaving the models "for overclocking" and games for the next time.

Criterias of choice

As always, we dance from a traditional Russian household item, "from the stove", for which we will choose the "people's" socket 1151, for which the manufacturers have released a huge number of motherboards. With this choice, sometimes the eyes really run up. We have to figure out how the fees differ, and for what the manufacturer wants to take this or that amount from us, and what to give for this amount.

Armed with this knowledge, we will distribute all the boards into several classes. Naturally, this division is conditional, and does not mean at all that from a motherboard from the budget segment one can expect only dull performance, suitable only for office use.

Not at all. Even ready-made system units from renowned manufacturers, and positioned as gaming ones, are often equipped with seemingly unsuitable motherboards based on the H110 chipset.

And yet, in terms of functionality and, most importantly, expansion options, motherboards differ. How they differ and depending on the purpose for which they are selected. If you are interested in overclocking the processor and memory, this is one class of devices. If the assembled computer will have to work normally before its replacement / upgrade in the form in which it is purchased, then what is the point of overpaying for redundant functions?

I will not limit it by form factor either. ATX, mATX, Mini-ITX, Mini-STX and others - we will leave everything and will consider it. The only thing that we will leave out of brackets is the preferences of this or that brand, the quality of service.

Budget motherboards

Models fall into this section not so much by price as by their capabilities. Agree, the H110 chipset cannot be classified as a top solution in any way. This is a typical budget option for building systems with rather limited expansion and configuration options.

At the same time, such motherboards perform their work no worse than more expensive models, and within the limits of their capabilities, they work as they should. So let's see what you can find on sale now. Let's go ascending price.

ASRock H110M-DGS R3.0

One of the cheapest models, the price of which is around 3000 rubles. Has PCI-E x16 slots, 1 PCI-E x1 slot, 4 SATA3 slots, 2 DDR4-2133 memory slots. A typical budget option with, however, a radiator is used for cooling.

R3.0 means that this is the 3rd revision of the board, and it should support 7th generation Kaby Lake processors out of the box. If you get an earlier board, then it's okay too. As a last resort, you will have to update the BIOS.

The board has a microATX form factor. The 8-pin processor power connector is located close to the socket, which can cause problems when installing bulky coolers. It may not work well and neatly to lay the cables. Naturally, there is no talk of any use of two video cards. Moreover, there is only DVI for connecting a monitor.

MSI H110M PRO-D

In fact, it is a direct analogue of the previous one, the cost, if different, is 100-200 rubles in one direction or another, depending on the store. The differences are 2 PCI-E x1 connectors, 6 power phases, 2 USB 3.1 connectors and, perhaps, that's all. The slightly larger size allowed the board to be assembled in a more traditional way, placing the connectors for connecting drives along the bottom edge.

In general, this is a more than decent choice for a minimum of money, and the board shows excellent performance. If you are ready to put up with the presence of only DVI, the absence of M.2, only two memory slots, and do not plan to install a large number of additional devices, then this board is definitely a bargain.

ASUS H110M-R / C / SI

At a price of about 3300 rubles. differs from those listed, perhaps, only in the presence of HDMI. There are no more advantages. So, if only DVI is not enough to connect a monitor, then in this case the whole "zoo" is present - VGA, DVI, HDMI. An overpayment of a couple of hundred rubles for a wide monitor connection is quite justified.

Of the features, it is worth mentioning the unfortunate arrangement of contacts for connecting the front audio connectors. They are located exactly in front of the PCI-E x16 connector, and the installed video card overlaps these pins. Yes, and one of the SATA is out of the line, being in a little in the back of the board.

MSI H110M PRO-VD (PLUS)

Unremarkable "mothers" at a price of just over 3300 rubles. At the same time, the PLUS version differs from the usual one by the smaller number of USB ports on the rear wall (4 versus 6) and the presence of two full-fledged PS / 2 together, one combined. Here is such a plus.

USB version 3.1 is used. To connect the monitor, DVI and VGA are used. There are 4 SATA, 2 memory slots, 1 PCI-E x16 and 2 PCI-E x1.

For the rest - normal fees, if there are no cheaper alternatives, then you can take it.

ASUS H110M-CS

An incomprehensible fee, or rather, the price for it. For 3800 rubles. everything is offered the same as in the case of the cheapest ASRock H110M-DGS R3.0. The difference is in the presence of the second PCI-E x1 connector and the replacement of DVI with the already archaic VGA. What to overpay for, for a brand?

MSI H110M ECO

The price is just over 3800 rubles. seems overpriced, although in comparison with the previous one it is somewhat compensated by the presence of VGA, DVI, HDMI, as well as the use of a network controller based on an Intel chip, which is a little faster than solutions based on chips from Realtek.

The board provides ample opportunities for energy saving. It is possible to manually disable unused elements (fans, lighting, etc.). There is also an automatic mode in which you can set up to 3 energy saving profiles. in this case, a high-quality element base is used.

Otherwise, there are no obvious arguments in favor of this fee, as well as reasons to overpay. There are no advantages over cheaper alternatives.

MSI H110M Gaming

For a beautiful name, belonging to gaming boards and for red connectors, the manufacturer wants 700 rubles more than for the previous, "eco-friendly" version. You will have to pay for the visual appeal.

True, the rear panel will not have 4 USB connectors (which is not enough in our times), but 6, and 4 of them are version 3.1. Otherwise, it is an analogue of the previous one, which functionally does not have any advantages.

MSI H110M GRENADE

Price - about 4700 rubles. It differs from most previous ones by the presence of an Intel network chip, an M.2 slot on the PCI-E bus and USB Type-C. Is it worth all the overpayment - you decide. Having M.2 for installing an SSD under an operating system can be useful when building compact computers.

ASRock H110M-STX

Mini-STX form factor board for building very compact systems. The cost is about 5200 rubles. The layout is specific, in which the connectors are located not only on the rear edge of the board, but also on the front. Features - support for processors with a TDP of up to 65 W, the use of an Intel network chip, SO-DIMM DDR4 memory modules. There is USB Type-C, 2 SATA3. You can use VGA, HDMI or DisplayPort to connect the monitor.

Installed 2 M.2 slots:

• Key E (Socket 1) - for installing Wi-fi or Bluetooth modules.
• Key M (Socket 3) - for installing SSD-drives on the PCIe Gen3 x4 2280 bus.

Please note that this board does not support SATA M.2 drives, only PCIe!

An external 19V power supply is used.

ASUS H110T

Form factor - Thin Mini-ITX. Price - about 5300 rubles. The difference from the previous model is the presence of two gigabit network interfaces (on Intel and Realtek chips), the absence of USB Type-C, support for M.2 SSD drives of the size 2242/2260. The lack of support for the most popular size of SSD 2280 drives may negate the use of this connector.

To connect a monitor, you can use HDMI, DisplayPort. Memory - laptop, SO-DIMM.

Other options

Naturally, these are not all models. I have listed only those that, in my opinion, may be of interest to something. For approximately the same cost, you can find other options that do not differ in almost anything. For example, the Gigabyte GA-H110M-S2 can compete with the cheapest models, but at the same or slightly higher (50-100 rubles) cost, there are no advantages. The whole difference comes down to the number of power phases and the layout.

The MSI H110M PRO-VH is a typical competitor to the MSI H110M PRO-VD (PLUS) models, and it differs only in the presence of HDMI, for which you will have to pay about 60 rubles.

You can pay a few hundred rubles if there really is a need for an HDMI, M.2 connector, or you have equipment that is connected via outdated COM or LPT interfaces.

Many models of boards, in fact, have several modifications that differ in the installed interfaces, primarily for connecting a monitor. So, ASRock's simplest H110M-DGS R3.0 has only DVI, and H110M-DVS R3.0 also has VGA. True, it costs 400 rubles more. ASRock H110M-HDV is already equipped with HDMI, and for this you will have to pay another 100 rubles compared to the previous version.

Such motherboards as Gigabyte GA-H110-D3A, ASRock H110 Pro BTC + and the like stand somewhat apart. Their cost is 7500 for the first and about 12,700 for the second. Both of them are full-fledged ATX, and such a characteristic as the number of PCI-E x1 ports speaks about the scope of application. Gigabyte has 5 of them, while ASRock has 12. It is probably already clear that these boards are designed specifically for mining cryptocurrencies.

To summarize, there is no fundamental difference between the boards. You can take any at the lowest price with the required set of installed interfaces, the choice of which, in other words, is not so wide. They differ in the presence and quantity of USB 3.0 / 3.1, USB Type-C, M.2 connector. There are differences in the way the monitor is connected. Even the cheapest motherboard can be connected via DVI. And with HDMI the model is only 300 rubles more expensive.

I would not pay much attention to the difference in the processor power system. Someone has only 4 phases, someone has 6. It is clear that the more, the better. ASRock especially loves to save on the number of power phases. On the other hand, only she has radiators to cool these circuits. Considering that overclocking processors is impossible, this is quite enough.

Perhaps the models of the Mini-ITX and Mini-STX form factor have their own specifics, but when choosing such motherboards, you most likely know why such options are needed.

Mid-range motherboards

Here motherboards based on B150 / 250, H170 / 270, Q170 / 270 chipsets will be considered. Let me remind you that they differ from the H110 in a larger number of PCI-E lanes, the use of the 3rd generation of this interface as opposed to the 2nd in the 110th chipset, a larger number of USB ports, as well as the ability to use 4 DIMM slots instead of two ...

The 2xx generation is not much different from the 1xx generation of chipsets. One of the main differences is storage support. Overclocking on these chipsets is not provided. This can only be done by increasing the frequency of the processor or memory. The use of processors with an unlocked multiplier (with the letter "K" in the marking) is not justified, since you will not be able to use this feature.

The glory of office solutions has been fixed for the B150 / 250 chipsets, although the number of offered models is large, the Q170 / 270 are specific products, more focused on the corporate segment, and the number of motherboards based on them is quite small. The most popular is the H170 / 270, which is deprived only of the ability to overclock the processor by a multiplier. The rest is one of the most functional options.

Considering all the proposed models is a thankless task. There are quite a few of them, and most of them differ little from each other. I will focus on the most attractive options.

ASRock B150M-HDS

In fact, it is a complete analogue to the ASRock B110M-HDS board, differing only in another chipset (B150) and the price is about 250-300 rubles higher. I don't see much point in buying it, given the minimum of connectors, the absence of M.2, and even the not entirely successful arrangement of the SATA connectors. It will be difficult to organize cables beautifully and neatly.

Gigabyte GA-B150M-D2V

One of the cheapest, which already has 6 SATA connectors. The cost is about 4200 rubles. The advantages are 4 USB 3.0 on the back panel, the presence of VGA and DVI for connecting a monitor. Among the minuses - only 2 DIMM DDR4, the absence of HDMI and M.2 (although this minus is rather controversial).

For your money - not a bad option.

Gigabyte GA-H170M-HD3 DDR3

Quite a controversial model. Chipset - H170. On the one hand, the price is about 4200 rubles, which includes 6 SATA3, 2 SATA Express (little-actualized connector), support for RAID 0,1,5,10, the presence of PCI-E M.2, VGA, DVI, HDMI. On the other hand, it works with the memory of the already outdated DDR3 generation, and you can install only 2 such modules. In our times, this is, rather, already a minus, although if other characteristics suit you, then you can take it. There won't be much difference between DDR3 and DDR4. The problem is in the further upgrade. The next time the motherboard is replaced, this memory will no longer be used.

If there are memory modules of this particular generation, then you can save and use them by updating the motherboard and processor, postponing the transition to a new generation of memory for another time.

The presence of a PCI slot is also controversial. Another PCI-E would be better. In general, I would not take this motherboard, precisely because of the hopelessness of memory.

MSI B250M PRO-VD

A motherboard based on a fresh B250 chipset for 4400 rubles, and one of the cheapest on it. The asset has a PCIe M.2 connector, 4 USB 3.1 on the rear panel, the ability to connect 6 SATA drives. The lack of HDMI (there are only VGA and DVI) may upset, and there are only two memory connectors. Otherwise, it is a good option at an attractive price on a good chipset.

ASRock B250M-HDV

Direct competitor to the previous model. It differs in a slightly higher price (about 4500 rubles), the presence of HDMI and a gigabit network card based on a chip from Intel. True, USB is only version 3.0, no 3.1 and Type-C. In my opinion, the option is slightly preferable to the model from MSI, if there are no complaints about the absence of the newfangled Type-C and USB 3.0 is enough.

For a little money, a pretty decent motherboard.

ASUS H170M-E D3

An even more controversial option than Gigabyte GA-H170M-HD3 DDR3. The cost is about 4600 rubles. The same DDR3 memory, though there are 4 slots for installing RAM modules. At the same time, there are only 4 SATA3, although with support for RAID 0,1,5,10, there is M.2.

I have no arguments in favor of this model. If you absolutely need a RAID, then there is a slightly cheaper Gigabyte, in which you can also connect 2 more drives. The only, albeit controversial, plus is 4 memory slots, and even then, there is Gigabyte GA-H170M-D3H DDR3, which also has 4 DIMMs and the same price. The model has outlived its life and is not interesting for purchase.

ASUS B150M-A / M.2

Quite a controversial option, primarily due to not the freshest chipset. Judge for yourself. Indeed, for 4800 rubles. there are 4 connectors for DDR4, and HDMI, and 6 SATA, and M.2, and USB 3.1 Type-C. On the downside, there is no RAID, the memory frequency is limited to 2133 MHz. If you need M.2 and Type-C is useful, then it makes sense to include this board in the list of candidates for purchase. Inexpensive, but everything you need is there. At the same time, about all the same can be found on a more recent chipset and for about the same money.

An alternative is Gigabyte GA-B250M-DS3H, which costs about 200 rubles. more, offers a more recent chipset, but no Type-C. ASUS PRIME B250M-A with the same characteristics and the same price costs about the same.

There is also the already mentioned ASRock B250M-HDV, which has everything that is in this model, but with a more recent chipset. True, this ASUS has 4 slots for installing memory, unlike the B250M-HDV, but the price is slightly higher.

Another alternative is the MSI B250M PRO-VDH, which has everything the same as this Asus, but the chipset is more recent.

MSI B250M BAZOOKA (PRO)

The cost is about 5300 rubles, the chipset is B250. What advantages does it have over ASUS PRIME B250M-A? None. All the same. In this case, the determining factor is the cost of a particular model at the moment. What is cheaper - then take it.

The PRO version differs from the usual one in the installed heatsink on the processor batteries.

MSI B150M NIGHT ELF

The cost is about 5500 rubles. Similarly equipped boards can be found cheaper. What is the overpayment for then? For the backlight, Intel NIC, and nice heatsinks.

With the characteristics, however, everything is in order. There are also 6 SATA, 4 slots for memory modules, and 2 PCI-E x16, and an Intel network chip. To connect the monitor, DVI is installed.

For aesthetics, having a glass wall in the case is a very good option. For those who are more important not how the board looks, but how it works, a waste of funds is not justified.

ASUS STRIX B250G GAMING

Cook 6,200 rubles. For what? For beautiful radiators, an Intel network card, 2 M.2 connectors, HDMI, a SupremeFX audio chip, which is used in more advanced motherboards from this manufacturer. Is the sound better than using the Realtek audio chip? I do not think.

Otherwise, it is much more attractive than the previous model, if only thanks to a newer chipset, the presence of M.2.

ASRock H270M Pro4

One of the cheapest motherboards based on the H270 chipset. The cost is about 6200 rubles. In the presence of 6 SATA3 with support for RAID 0, 1, 5, 10, 2 M.2 connectors, both running on the PCIe bus, with one M.2 supporting SSDs of this form factor running on the SATA bus. The second M.2 is only PCIe drives.

There is also HDMI c DVI, USB Type-C is also installed. Processor power supply - 6-phase. In general, a very "packed" model based on a fresh chipset and for reasonable money. It can be compared with the previous model. Although there are no beautiful radiators and the word "GAMING" in the name, the characteristics are by no means worse, and even better.

I advise you to take a closer look. If you don't need multiplier overclocking, this is probably one of the best options. Similar in characteristics to MSI H270M BAZOOKA for about 300 rubles. more expensive. Moreover, there is only one M.2.

There is a modification of this board with a slightly different layout - the H270 Pro4 model, although it is already more expensive by about 400 rubles. But there is also ASRock B250M Pro4, a slightly simplified version on a simpler chipset, devoid of RAID. But it costs 800-1000 rubles. cheaper.

ASRock Fatal1ty B250M Performance

The cost is about 6350 rubles. The board is beautiful, made in red and black colors, which are painted with memory slots and heatsinks. Metal connector for a video card.

There is everything that should be in such cards - HDMI, Type-C, M.2, a network card from Intel, 6 SATA, DVI-D, HDMI, VGA, 4 slots for memory modules.

Well, the big name in the title. Whether all this overpayment is worth it is up to you. (Hint: ASRock B250M Pro4 has everything the same, but without pretties, for about 5200 rubles).

MSI B250M MORTAR ARCTIC

The cost is about 6600 rubles. The board is of interest primarily to modders who assemble a system unit in white. In terms of characteristics, there is no difference with cheaper competitors.

Gigabyte GA-H270-HD3

A full-fledged ATX board with three PCI-E x16, two PCI-E x1 and two PCI slots, since the chipset has a sufficient number of lanes to install such a number of expansion slots. And for all this you will have to pay about 6,700 rubles.

Among other characteristics - 4 slots for DDR4 memory, 6 SATA, which can be combined into RAID 0, 1, 5, 10, there is PCI-E M.2, Intel network controller. You can use VGA, DVI or HDMI to connect the monitor. No, maybe Type-C. The rest is a very sophisticated model. It will come in handy for those who really need all these features.

Against its background, the ASUS H170-PLUS D3 chamber looks strange, which at the same price has DDR3 memory, only 4 SATA, USB 3.0 instead of version 3.1 from Gigabyte. Do you have any arguments in favor of this Asus? I do not have.

ASUS B150 PRO GAMING / AURA

The cost is about 7,500 rubles. Compared to Gigabyte GA-H270-HD3 offers nothing new. Moreover, it lacks RAID support, no USB 3.1, and the old series chipset.

True, beautiful lighting and painted radiators. The SupremeFX sound subsystem is used, there are 6 SATA, M.2, an intelligent network controller, there is USB Type-C. For modders - it is the most, and the proprietary Aura lighting system is only a help. For boring pragmatists - unnecessary buns, for which it is not clear why you have to pay.

Gigabyte GA-H270-Gaming 3

Estimated price - about 9000 rubles. Belongs to the gaming series of boards, which, in fact, follows from the name. It has everything you need to build a highly productive gaming computer.

There are 6 SATA3 slots with support for RAID 0, 1, 10, 5, and 2 M.2 connectors, and 4 slots for DDR4-2400 memory, and USB 3.1, and Type-C, and DVI with HDMI. By the way, there is also support for RAID 0, 1, 5, 10. Among the features is the use of a Killer E2500 network controller from Rivet Networks. Naturally, everything is in the newfangled illumination. The form factor is full ATX.

MSI H270 GAMING PRO CARBON

This is one of the most expensive boards. Its cost is about 9,300 rubles. The H270 chipset provides support for DDR4-2400 memory, 4 memory slots, 6 SATA3 slots, 2 M.2 slots. There are all modern interface connectors, including USB Type-C. A network card based on an Intel chip is used.

Naturally, it was not without customizable backlighting, installation of a metal connector for the first PCI-E x16. The radiators are marked with logos and inscriptions.

This board does not fundamentally differ from its cheaper counterparts. In this case, the choice is more based on the aesthetic qualities of the product than on the characteristics that can be found in motherboards at a lower price.

MSI B250M PRO OPT BOOST

The characteristics of the motherboard practically do not differ from the above-described MSI B250M BAZOOKA, and unlike the latter, there is no Typ-C port, and a combined PS / 2 is installed. At the same time, the price of the board is about 7900 rubles. The difference with the bazooka is about 2500 rubles. For what? And for the 16 GB Intel Optane module that comes in the kit (the letters OPT in the name are for a reason).

Moreover, the cost of such a caching module, if you buy it separately, is about 1000 more than the difference in the cost of these two boards. Isn't there a reason to buy a motherboard in one shot and, in addition to it, a completely fresh Intel Optane, which will allow you to do without purchasing an SSD, but get the speed of a hard drive almost like a solid-state one?

Other options

As in the case of budget motherboards, a large number of other models remained behind the scenes, which literally do not differ from those listed, but have a higher price. Surely there is a number of motherboards that will meet the required characteristics, and choose from which one that is simply cheaper.

For example, the ASRock B250M-HDV has HDMI, which is not found in the similar ASUS PRIME B250M-K, while it is also slightly cheaper. The point then in buying this ASUS model?

So, the above MSI H270 GAMING PRO CARBON is far from the only one focused on use in gaming computers. Moreover, it is one of the most expensive in this segment. There is ASRock B250 Gaming K4 (8200 rubles), ASUS ROG STRIX B250I GAMING (8200 (rubles), ASUS STRIX H270F GAMING (9100 rubles) and a number of others. Which one to choose is a matter of taste and financial capabilities.

On the other hand, if we compare the top (in this collection) MSI H270 GAMING PRO CARBON and the cheapest on the same ASRock H270M Pro4 chipset, which is about 3000 rubles. cheaper, then let's see what, in fact, is included in this difference. In terms of functionality, the boards are identical, except for the absence of RAID in MSI and the presence of 2 USB 3.0 more on the rear panel, as well as an S / PDIF output.

But MSI is equipped with backlighting (where is it now without it), beautiful radiators, generally quite spectacular appearance, well, and gold-plated audio connectors. It turns out that the increase in value includes exclusively all this beauty. Is it worth it?

Conclusion. How to choose the right motherboard

How to choose the best option from all the variety of offers? It is unlikely that it will be possible to give an unequivocally correct answer. For a start - I would not "bother" about the manufacturer. Only a few trustworthy companies are engaged in the release and, frankly, whose products differ little from each other. I would not consider exotic things like Biostar or Colorful.

The next step is to decide on the main characteristics. What processor are you planning to use? If from the last (at the moment) generation of Kaby Lake, then I see no reason to save money and consider models based on chipsets of the 100th family. Except for H110, if a budget system is being assembled and the goal is maximum savings. The 200 family of chipsets supports DDR4-2400 memory, has more PCI-Express lanes, which gives more options for system expansion.

Moreover, the savings may turn out to be minimal, and the chosen mother on the old chipset may no longer have any prospects. The same is with memory. Even if there are DDR3 strips left, it is not entirely reasonable to save money and continue using them with a new motherboard. Since we are talking about an upgrade, you will have to part with the honestly outdated DDR3 and switch to DDR4.

Naturally, when buying a motherboard based on chipsets without the letter "Z", that is, without the possibility of overclocking by changing the multiplier, the use of processors with an unlocked multiplier is not implied (for example, I7-7700K). Such a bundle, of course, will work, but why overpay for an "unlocked" processor, if you cannot use it?

As you can see, there are models that may differ from each other by the presence or absence of just one connector, for example, HDMI. Do you need it, are you planning to use it? If yes, then there are no questions, if your monitor works perfectly with DVI, then is it really important if the selected "mother" also has HDMI?

Now about the interfaces for connecting external devices. All models have USB 2.0 and 3.0, some have more connectors with the old version of USB, some have more USB 3.0. Many also offer USB 3.1, and sometimes Type-C is also present. You need it - look for a model with such a connector, no - well, don't pay attention.

After determining the list of required characteristics, select the appropriate models. Should I take the most expensive one? Well, if only for the sake of the backlight, the unusual color of the PCB, metal connectors for memory / video card or any similar "buns". It will work in the same way as its cheaper counterpart.

For that matter, it’s better to pay attention to the processor power supply, how many phases are used in the selected motherboard model, whether there are heatsinks on them. This is especially true if you are not going to waste your time on trifles and plan to install a powerful processor.

The main thing is what to choose from what to choose, and what to choose from. As usual, in all the variety of motherboards there are those that will fully meet your requirements, and among them it is quite possible to choose the most affordable one.

Next time, let's look at motherboards that involve overclocking and which should be in gaming computers.

Good day, dear readers, visitors, passing personalities and other creatures of this multidimensional universe! :) Let's talk about how to choose a case.

Well, here we got to the next article, which, as it were, will summarize, or rather, will wrap and pack all those components that we learned to choose earlier, relying on articles from the already proven cycle labeled “selection criteria”, where the maximum detailed stories about how to choose one or another component of your computer or peripherals around it. As many remember, there were optional articles, and much more.

As you may have guessed from the title, today we will talk about choosing a case for a computer filling. We will find out what to look for when buying it, whether it is worth overpaying at all, and so on.

Actually, please take your seats in the auditorium, we are starting ..

What we pay for - optional introductory

When you buy any product, what do you pay attention to in the first place? That's right, first on the packaging, then on the content, and only then on the price. In the computer world, the opposite is true, and practically no attention is paid to the packaging of components (i.e. the case).

Usually, when a person wants to buy a computer, the case in the list of components is in the very last positions, except perhaps in front of the mouse and keyboard. Here the following logic is most often followed: “first - the most powerful vidyuhu, then at least 4 cores, 6 GB of memory, and some simple case for the rest”. Those. usually normal people are willing to pay for the content, not the wrapper. Partly - this position is correct, but here the wrapper is not just a beautiful candy wrapper, the body is a guarantor of safety, stability and comfortable operation of all computer filling.

Banal life example

Recently I witnessed how my acquaintance saved on the "iron felix" - the case. He took a more expensive vidyuhu, a faster processor, a memory wagon and decided to pack it all into a cheap (noname) case. What do you think happened? That's right, trouble came from under the table: incomprehensible burning smells began to appear, conductors melted, CPU overheated and other "saved" bonuses.

Therefore, in order not to throw money down the drain, you need to correctly plan your computer budget and wisely approach the purchase of a "packing box" for your components - the case. We will just talk about the latter further.

How to choose a case and what to focus on

So, first of all, it should be said that there are no norms, canons and ideals in case building. And therefore, one should not "be led" on bright phrases - the best, ultramodern, etc., all this is heresy. If you disassemble the technical side, then you need to keep in mind (keep in mind when buying) that there are the following parameters:

• Case type (form factor, size);
• Material;
• Cooling system ();
• Structural elements, fastening;
• Appearance, design, gadgets.

Let's go through and analyze each parameter separately, but first we will determine live on the main structural compartments / departments of almost any case. Actually, after removing the cover of your system unit, you can find inside a lot of dust the following niches for installing computer elements (see image).

So, the standard is this:

• Place under (1). In modern models, it is often located at the bottom;
• Flexible drive bays (2). A rarity for many cases;
• The cavity for installing the motherboard (3);
• Niche for a processor with a cooling system (4);
• Connector for installing a video card (5);
• Peripheral connectors (mouse, keyboard, sound, hubs, etc.).

Now let's go directly to the parameters.

Type of shell

The modern market for computer cases is represented by many models, but there are certain standards according to which they are produced. These standards are laid down in the so-called form factors that ultimately determine the size of the computer case.

The following frame size standards exist:

• Mini-ITX;
• Micro-ATX;
• ATX;
• EATX;
• XL-ATX;

You can also find such a classification of hulls (tower, as they are called):

• SFF (Small Form Factor) - micro;
• Mini Tower - mini;
• Middle Tower - medium;
• Big Tower - large;

The difference between the standards of the enclosures lies in the different size range intended for this enclosure. To estimate the dimensions, it is convenient to use the table (see image).

The visual size range clearly demonstrates the following image.

I think there is no need to say that the main criterion for choosing a case type completely depends on the tasks that you set for your computer counterpart. Those. mini and micro ATX are ideal options for unassuming office users, for whom their iron friend should just fit well into the interior (not taking up much space), and, if possible, do the "hard" work in the form of "open-close-save" document and other office fun :).

What to start from

If your goal is a moderately solid and productive unit, then ATX is what the doctor ordered. Well, the smartest option for the smarter fans is the XL-ATX case (aka Full Tower). As I already said, the main criterion for choosing a particular type of case depends on the "metric" of the motherboard that you want to place there to perform the corresponding tasks. Also, the size of the case directly affects the quality of cooling inside, which means the life and performance of all components.

Note:

• Mini-ITX - the smallest, usually come with a built-in low-power PSU (up to 350 W) and are designed for "inch" board size.
• Micro-ATX is a typical desktop solution for home users. It already has a slightly more intelligible dimensions and also often comes with a built-in 400-500 W power supply. In general, it allows you to build on your site a completely satisfactory performance "average".
• ATX is often sold without a built-in PSU and gives the user complete freedom to expand.
• EATX and XL-ATX are excellent, high-performance (including server and powerful gaming) solution for bundling multiple graphics subsystems and computing cores.

Let's move on to the "material" component of the body.

Body material

It would seem, what's the difference from what the body is made, not paper, and okay. But no, the material is important, because it must provide not only high-quality cooling, but also a certain degree of protection against mechanical damage and vibration. Most often, the material of the case of premium models (with a price of 8 tr.) Is metal such as aluminum.

It is he (not counting copper) that has a good ability to dissipate a large amount of heat. Do not think that if the material is not aluminum, then the case will not cope well with its tasks, by no means. Most models of the mid-price (mass consumer) segment are made of special SECC steel - steel coated with a galvanic zinc solution.

An important point when buying will also be the build quality and the thickness of the walls of the case themselves. Regarding the first, it should be said that you should not buy (seeming to you at first glance) completely metal cheap Chinese cases. Most often, the so-called noname models are made from low-grade stamping, and the build quality leaves much to be desired, i.e. there are various backlashes, vibrations and crevices due to the fact that the housing components are not tightly fitted to each other.

Note:
It is not entirely correct to think that the entire body is solid metal; you can often find plastic elements in the design of various panels, clamps, fasteners - this is normal.

Wall thickness is also a significant parameter. If it is less than 0.5 mm, then most often you should not pay attention to such a case, because at the slightest vibrations the rumble will be such that no ear plugs will help. Therefore, try to choose the thickness of the walls of the case from 0.5 to 1 mm.

Cooling system or "carlsons" in the case

Of course, the case is not only a protector against damage, but also a ventilation casing for all components of your PC, providing the necessary "coolness" to its hot elements. However, the rule "the more" wind turbines "in the case, the better" does not work here. It all depends on the competent organization of the ventilation process (air circulation) by installing coolers in the right seats.

In other words, 4-5 factory fans do not always guarantee high-quality cooling of computer internals, because ventilation is created not by the number of "turntables", but by air flows. And if the latter intertwine, collide and interfere with each other, then there is no need to talk about any effective process for removing hot air.

The conventionally widespread ventilation scheme of housings is as follows (see image).

In this scheme, one or more large "unhurried" fans are installed at the inlet, drawing in fresh room air. At the outlet (rear wall of the case) there is a slightly smaller fan, but more "nimble", working for blowing out.

This design allows a decent thrust to be created in an enclosed space and the body starts to work like a large cooling turbine, i.e. cold air, stretching through all hot components, cools them and is thrown outside.

About twists separately and how to choose a body based on them

This standard design is often supplemented with "twists" at the top and side walls of the body, which also work for injection. In general, to create a high-quality cooling environment inside the case, it is necessary to follow these simple rules:

• More "twists" does not mean better;
• The air flow should be solid and unidirectional, without breaking it down by various additional flows;
• Hot air always goes up, and cold air goes down, so you shouldn't put the vertical block on its side;
• Cables loose in the housing can disturb the movement of air masses;
• Large fan blades are better than small ones. create more air flow with less revolutions.

It is also worthwhile to separately pay attention to the fans themselves, or rather, to the volume of air that they can "pump" into the case per unit of time (minute). This technical parameter is called CFM (cubic feet per minute). The volume of circulating air inside the enclosure must be constantly renewed. And in order to calculate by the dimensions of the case what kind of fan he needs, you need to resort to simple math:

• Multiply the parameters (length, height, width) of the case in mm and find out its area;
• Determine the CFM of the fan.

Let's say for a case with dimensions 253x502x563 mm, the volume is 2.52 cubic meters. feet. A 70 CFM fan is required to refresh the air every two seconds. Very often inside the case you can find large air vents in the form of pipes on the side surface for cooling the processor (see image).

So, the benefits of them are rather doubtful, but they bring their "interference" into the harmony of the air flow, because they block the natural circulation of air, and in exactly the same way as the wires that are not tucked into the casing do. It is also worth mentioning about the not particularly necessary component of the ventilation system of the case - dust nets.

Their efficiency is extremely low, because literally after 2-3 months of active use of the computer, they corny become clogged with room dust, and this again interferes with normal air circulation and contributes to overheating of computer components. In general, these pipes are rarely really effective.

By the way, how to properly deal with dust inside the system unit, we talked about in our article titled, so read and do not get dusty :)

Fastening: tongue and screw. Ergonomics of the case

It would seem, what have the screws got to do with it, but this is what it has to do with it. Very often, in cheap cases, everything is fixed in the old fashioned way with the help of motley screws, the replacement of which turns into dancing with a tambourine. He unscrewed 5 pieces while screwing 3, the fourth rolled away, and one was completely lost in the dark bowels of the case, climbed to look for it (took a flashlight) and along the way scratched itself against the steel edges of the panels, how do you like this perspective?

Top-notch chassis manufacturers have long since solved these problems with a system of plastic rivets and mounts, as well as installing a hard drive sled that slides out on wheels. Everything is flexible, mobile and comfortable (see image).

Such things (plugs, additional fasteners, clamps, shelves) have a positive effect on the ergonomics of the case, or, in other words, on its functional "convenience" for the user. Those. ergonomics, if you like, is the extensibility of your case, its ability to easily transform during modernization, including changing your external and internal world appearance.

Cable routing inside the case is also an important ergonomic feature, as the cooling inside the case also depends on how easy they can be hidden. On the other hand, wires should always be within walking distance if a new drive or disc needs to be connected, and not cause a “tug of war” syndrome in the user. This is when the wire does not reach the socket of the device, but we still pull it there, because there are no more options.

Appearance, design and "navaroty"

What user doesn't like to show off their body? Yes, one that does not have this case :). We are all human and we all want to surprise someone with something. For some computer users, this "surprise" is the design of the case. Here's an example (see image).

It should be understood that design is a purely individual thing, many are ready to sacrifice functionality for the sake of various flashing lights, illuminators and nozzles, and this is everyone's personal business. However, do not forget that the case in strict colors with a minimum amount of backlights, sensors and other tinsel will always look stylish and elegant.

Of the necessary design and engineering gadgets, it should be noted that there are various types of connectors on the front (or top) panel of the case. By default, always displayed: headphone / microphone and USB. Whoever lacks such a "gentleman's set" can easily take a case with a "margin", where there is an eSATA port for connecting a portable hard drive, a cooler rotation speed controller and a couple of modern ultra-high-speed USB 3.0 ports (see image).

Uff-f, it seems that we have finished with the practical-theoretical part, now let's summarize in order to master all the above material as well as possible and learn how to choose the right PC case the first time.

Frequently asked questions and frequently answered by choice

So, remember the following tips, and such an event as buying the right case will become a habitual activity for you :).

• Decide on the tasks that your PC will solve (office, gaming, etc.);
• Based on the tasks, select the required dimensions of the motherboard and case for it;
• The material of the walls of the case should be between 0.5 and 1 mm thick;
• Do not buy noname models, take a look at the professionals in their field: Cooler Master, Zalman, Inwin;
• A cooling system of 3-4 fans is sufficient for efficient heat dissipation;
• Do not skimp on the block, it must have significant power, otherwise your filling will sooner or later be covered with a copper basin;
• The best location of the PSU in the case is at the bottom;
• Make sure that there are plastic elements for the installation of hard drives and drives;
• Try to buy a case free of various screws and tongues;
• Pay attention to the presence of additional connectors on the front panel of the case;
• Remember, a high-quality building starts its "pricing" from an amount of 6,000 rubles or more.

These tips will help you make the right choice!

In a nutshell, something like this.

Where is the best place to buy a case?

• , - for those who are not afraid to buy abroad and save money. There are many, several popular brands, and in general a pleasant store, where there are permanent and so on;
• , - perhaps the best choice in terms of price-quality ratio of SSDs (and not only). Quite reasonable prices, although the assortment is not always ideal in terms of variety. The key advantage is a guarantee, which really allows you to change the product within 14 days without any questions, and in case of warranty problems, the store will take your side and help you solve any problems. The author of the site has been using it for at least 10 years (since the days when they were part of Ultra Electoronics), which he advises you;
• , is one of the oldest stores on the market, as the company has existed for about 20 years. Decent selection, average prices and one of the most user-friendly sites. All in all, it's a pleasure to work with.

The choice is traditionally yours. Of course, nobody canceled Yandex.Market's all sorts of things, but from good stores I would recommend just these, and not some MVideo and other large networks (which are often not just expensive, but flawed in terms of quality of service, warranty etc.).

Afterword

The author of the project strongly recommends (for high-performance solutions) tower (Full Tower) cases from ChiefTec. An example can be seen from the link given above in the article on dust cleaning. Why? It's simple:

• The size of the case is large and allows you to install any board and other components without any problems and interference (video cards are extremely long, and the number of wires with a large number of components can be significant, which interferes with air circulation in a small case)
• Hard drives are placed in a separate unit and have their own mounts (slide without bolts for a screwdriver), as well as, more importantly, fans for a perpendicular and almost independent cooling system, which means sensible air circulation
• Almost everything is thought out in the case, from the number of additional bolts on the crossbeam to the possibility of installation inside the UPS case.

But - to each his own. This is so, as a personal opinion.

Well, our next iron article has come to an end, in which we have learned to choose the right case. Now the only thing left to do is to go to the store and, with a clear conscience, that you know everything, purchase the coveted piece of iron.

Happy purchases, ladies and gentlemen!

P.S. Thanks to team member 25 FRAME for the existence of this article

P.P.S. If you still have questions, misunderstandings and other miscellaneous, as well as additions, thanks, thoughts, etc., then leave them in the comments - we will be happy.