How to make a shocker from a capacitor. Flashlight-electric shocker - what's inside it. How to make a stun gun from a battery

Stun gun— the device is very useful, but what is sold in the store will not protect you in real “combat” situations. It is worth recalling once again that according to GOST, civilians (mere mortals) cannot carry and use electroshock devices whose power exceeds 3 Watts. This is ridiculous power, which is only enough to scare away dogs and drunken winos, but not for defense.
An electroshock device must be highly effective in order to protect its owner in any situation, but alas... there are no such devices in the store.

So what to do in this case? The answer is simple - assemble a stun gun with your own hands at home. Some of you may be wondering: is it safe for attackers? It's safe if you know what to collect. In this article we will offer a shocker that has a titanic output power of 70 watts (130 watts at peak) and can kill any person in a split second.

In the passport data of industrial electroshock devices you can see the parameter - EFFECTIVE EXPOSURE TIME. This time directly depends on the power. For standard 3-watt shockers, the impact time is 3-4 seconds, but naturally no one has yet been able to hold it for 3 seconds, because due to the insignificant output power, the attacker will quickly figure out what’s wrong and attack again. In this situation, your life will be under threat and if there is nothing to defend yourself with, the consequences can be tragic.

Let's move on to assembling the stun gun with our own hands. But first, I want to say that this material is presented on the network for the first time, the content is completely original, thanks to my good friend Evgeniy for the proposal to use a push-pull multiplier in the high-voltage part. A series multiplier (often used in stun guns) has a fairly low efficiency, and in this case the power is transferred to the attacker's body without much loss.

Below we present the main parameters of the stun gun:

Inverter

A powerful push-pull inverter circuit using N-channel power switches was used. This simple multivibrator circuit has a minimum number of components and consumes current up to 11 Amps, and after replacing the transistors with more powerful ones, the consumption increased to 16 Amps - quite a lot for such a compact inverter.

But if you have such a powerful converter, then you need an appropriate power source. A few weeks ago, two sets of lithium-polymer batteries with a capacity of 1200 mA at 12 Volts were ordered from an ebay auction. Later we managed to dig up some data about these batteries online. One of the sources reported that the short-circuit current of these batteries is 15 Amperes, but then from more reliable sources it became clear that the short-circuit current reaches up to 34 Amperes!!! Wild batteries with fairly compact sizes. It should be noted that 34 A is the short-term short-circuit current supplied.

After choosing a power source, you need to start assembling the stun gun filling.

In the inverter, you can use field-effect transistors IRFZ44, IRFZ46, IRFZ48, or more powerful ones - IRL3705, IRF3205 (it is the latter option that I used).

The pulse transformer was wound on a 50-watt core. Such Chinese transformers are designed to power 12-Volt halogen lamps and cost a penny (a little more than 1 US dollar).

The primary winding is wound immediately with 5 strands of 0.5 mm wire (each). The winding contains 2x5 turns and is wound with two tires at once, each bus consists of 5 turns, as mentioned above.

We wind 5 turns at once with two buses throughout the frame, because we end up with 4 outputs of the primary winding.

We carefully insulate the winding with 10-15 layers of thin transparent tape and wind the step-up winding.

The secondary winding consists of 800 turns and is wound with 0.1 mm wire. We wind the winding in layers - each layer consists of 70-80 turns. We install interlayer insulation with the same transparent tape, for each row there are 3-5 layers of insulation.

The finished transformer can be filled with epoxy resin, which I never do, since the winding technology has been worked out and so far no transformer has been pierced.

Multiplier

We continue to assemble the stun gun with our own hands. In the high-voltage part, two push-pull multipliers connected in series are used. They use fairly common high-voltage components - 5kV 2200pF capacitors and KTs123 or KTs106 diodes (the former work better due to the increased reverse voltage).

There is nothing special to explain, we assemble it stupidly according to the diagram. The finished multiplier turns out to be quite compact; it needs to be filled with epoxy resin after it is mounted in the housing.

From such a multiplier you can remove up to 5-6 cm of clean arc, but you should not move the output contacts far apart to avoid undesirable consequences.

Housing and installation

The body was taken from a Chinese LED flashlight, although it had to be slightly altered. The batteries are located at the back of the case.

The power switch is used as a fuse. You can use almost any with a current of 4-5 Amps or more. The switches were taken from Chinese night lights (price in the store is less than a dollar).

A non-latching button should also be used with a large current. In my case, the button has two positions.

The flashlight is assembled using regular white LEDs. 3 LEDs from the flashlight are connected in series and connected to the battery through a 10 Ohm limiting resistor. This flashlight shines quite brightly and is quite suitable for illuminating the road at night.

After final installation, it is worth once again checking the entire circuit for serviceability.

To fill the voltage multiplier, I used epoxy resin, which is sold in syringes; it weighs only 28-29 grams, but one package is enough to fill two such multipliers.

The finished stun gun is very compact and wildly powerful.

Due to the increased frequency of sparking, more joules per second are supplied to the human body, so the effective impact time of the shocker is microseconds!

Charging is carried out using a transformerless circuit, the design of which we will talk about some other time.

The finished shocker was covered with 3D carbon fiber (price about 4 dollars per 1 meter).

This is how you can make a stun gun with your own hands, and it will be significantly better compared to factory versions.

For the first time, I have prepared several detailed video tutorials on assembling this stun gun.

It is quite difficult to defend yourself in a closed space from an unexpected attacker. For example, how to stop a robber in an elevator? or they can harm themselves, and a knife or pistol can become a deadly weapon. They will also give you a deadline.

Therefore, the best option would be, which, by the way, can be made independently. And today we will tell you how to make regular and powerful mini stun guns at home.

Before moving on to special types of devices, let's talk about how to make the simplest stun gun.

Necessary equipment and raw materials

Here is a list of necessary materials and parts:

• silicone;
• insulating tape;
• a ferrite rod pulled from an old radio;
• plastic bag;
• scotch;
• wire;
• wire with a diameter of 0.5 to 1 millimeter;
• wire with a diameter of 0.4 to 0.7 millimeters;
• wire with a diameter of 0.8 millimeters;
• a ferrite transformer removed from the switching power supply of any electronic device;
• fuse;
• battery for power supply;
• diodes, capacitor and resistor for the charger;
• Light-emitting diode;
• switches;
• old suitable housing or plastic for its manufacture.

Now let’s find out how to make a homemade stun gun.

Creation technology

High voltage coil

First we make a high-voltage coil.

1. To do this, we wrap a ferrite rod about five centimeters long with electrical tape in three layers, then fifteen turns of the thinnest wire.
2. On top there are five more layers of electrical tape and six layers of tape.
3. We cut the plastic bag into strips ten centimeters long and width corresponding to the length of the coil.
4. Next comes the secondary winding with a thicker wire (from 350 to 400 turns) in the same direction as the primary winding.
5. We insulate each row of wire (from 40 to 50 turns) with plastic tape and five rows of tape.
6. At the end there are two layers of electrical tape and ten layers of tape. Fill the sides with silicone.

Converter transformer

Now we make the converter transformer.

• Its basis will be a ferrite transformer, from which you need to remove all the windings and the ferrite frame (to do this, you may have to immerse the part in boiling water for a while).
• We wind the primary winding from a wire 0.8 millimeters thick (12 turns). The secondary winding is 600 turns (70 turns per row) with millimeter wire.
• To insulate each row, we lay four layers of electrical tape. Having inserted the ferrite halves, we secure the structure using electrical tape or tape.

Spark gap and other parts

The next part is the spark gap.

1. For this, we’ll take an old fuse, remove the tin on its contacts with a hot soldering iron, and pull out the internal wire.
2. Screw in the screws on both sides (they should not be in contact).
3. By changing the gap between them, you can change the frequency of discharges.

We take ready-made batteries:

• lithium-ion (pulled from a mobile phone),
• nickel-cadmium or lithium-polymer.

The latter are very capacious, but they must be purchased, and this is expensive.

For the charger we solder a diode bridge, a capacitor, a resistor and a signal LED. A diagram with the characteristics of the parts can be found on the Internet. Charging time will be about three to four hours.

As for the case, you can find something suitable by gutting the faulty device. Or glue it together from plastic parts. You can even make a case out of cardboard by filling it with epoxy. The result is a stun gun with a power of about five watts, consuming up to three amperes of current. We remember that a person should not be exposed to a discharge for more than three seconds.

Special types of homemade ESA

From a flashlight

So, how to make a stun gun from a flashlight like the so popular, or, for example,?

1. In fact, you only need the flashlight body - you can also leave the LED. This is convenient since there are already batteries inside.
2. Four high-voltage coils and converters taken from electric lighters for gas stoves should also be placed there.
3. Arresters and a separate switch are added to the circuit.
4. Each transformer has its own two contacts.
5. The arresters are made from narrow steel strips or pieces of paper clips.

We will tell you further about how to make a stun gun from a battery.

From a battery

This is the easy way. For it you will need:

• 9-watt Krona battery;
• ebonite rod from 30 to 40 centimeters long;
• converting transformer (ready, removed from the charger or network adapter);
• insulating tape;
• steel wire;
• push-button switch.

We take an ebonite rod and tape two five-centimeter pieces of steel wire to it with electrical tape. They need to be connected using a wire with a transformer and a battery. The switch is attached to the opposite end of the rod. When you press its button, a discharge (arc) will appear between the pieces of wire. To do this you need to press 25 times per second.

The power of the device is small - it can be used for intimidation rather than for protection.

From a lighter

So, how to make a stun gun from a lighter? We will need:

• battery-powered electric lighter;
• clip;
• glue;
• soldering iron and solder.

We disassemble the lighter and cut off the tube with a hacksaw. We only need a handle with wires coming out of it. We leave them one or two centimeters long, cutting them off with pliers. Then we expose their ends and solder pieces of paper clips there. We bend the ends slightly. We fix the entire structure with glue. The power of the device is also not too high.

The video below will show you how to make a stun gun from a lighter at home:

In the form of a pen

You will need:

• small carnation;
• two lighters (one certainly with a piezoelectric element);
• a handle with a button and a metal clip, having a sufficiently large diameter to accommodate a piezoelectric element;
• hacksaw for metal;
• glue gun

1. We disassemble one of the lighters and remove the piezoelectric element.
2. We disassemble the handle, take out the inner plastic sleeve and cut out its middle part to a length corresponding to the size of the piezoelectric element.
3. We remove the clip and use a heated nail (using a second lighter) to make a hole in the upper part of the handle body.
4. Use a hacksaw to make a cut for the wire.
5. We put the handle button in place, use a heat gun to glue the insulation of the piezoelectric element wire and glue it to the second part of the plastic inner sleeve.
6. We insert everything into the handle body, insert the wire into the hole, then pass it along the cut groove and clamp it with a metal clip from the handle.
7. We insert the lower part of the sleeve and assemble the handle.
8. Now, when you press the button, the clip will produce an electric shock.

But this is more of a toy than a means of self-defense. Now let's find out how to make a stun gun from a capacitor at home.

From the capacitor

We take a capacitor from a long fluorescent lamp. Previously, in Soviet times, it was rectangular, red or green. In modern models it is a white cylinder.

We also need a wire (double) with a plug at the end. The length of the wire can be left about ten to fifteen centimeters.

We expose the ends opposite the plug, screw them to the contacts of the capacitor and carefully insulate them. There you go. Now, after charging from the mains, a discharge will appear at the ends of the plug, quite noticeable. But it doesn’t cause harm – it only stings.

The video below will show you how to make a powerful stun gun at home:

I present a slightly reworked "evil shocker". The circuit was redone to reduce radio components. The result was a fairly powerful shocker, not something they sell in stores, but something that will help in a real fight. A special feature of this circuit is the so-called “fighting capacitor”. During discharges, the capacitance of this capacitor flows through the arc, resulting in very “evil” red-orange discharges that can even set fire to a cigarette without any problems.

The main part is a voltage converter. This circuit uses a blocking generator based on a powerful field-effect transistor. The base resistor is selected with a power of 1 watt 100 ohms, although you can deviate to one side or the other by up to 20%.

Converter transformer: A W-shaped transformer from a computer power supply was used. You need to remove all the factory windings in advance and wind new ones instead. The transformer has only two windings. The primary winding is wound with 0.7 mm wire and contains 10 turns with a tap from the middle. We put 5 layers of insulation on top with ordinary tape, then we wrap the secondary.

The secondary or boost winding contains 800 turns of wire with a diameter of 0.08 mm. The winding winds in rows, otherwise it will break right away! Each row contains 80 turns, then the row is insulated with two layers of transparent tape and the second row is wound. ATTENTION!!! do not allow cliffs! because in this case you will have to rewind everything. After manufacturing the transformer, it needs to be checked. To do this, we assemble a circuit without a high-voltage part. A “burning arc” should form at the output of the transformer, which reaches up to 1.5 cm.

After checking the transformer, you need to move on to manufacturing a high-voltage coil.

The core for the coil is not critical; you can use transformer plates collected in a package, ferrite rods of any penetration, and even iron rods (the latter should be used only as a last resort).

The rod is insulated on all sides. Insulation can be done with tape or tape.

Next, we need a stranded insulated wire with a length of 40 cm (diameter 0.6 mm), with which we will wind the primary winding of the coil. The primary winding contains 12 turns. We put insulation on top in several layers of wide tape. Next, we begin to wind the secondary winding. For the secondary, you can use a wire with a diameter of 0.1 - 0.4 mm. We wind the winding according to the same principle that was used when winding the converter transformer. We install interlayer insulation with wide tape.

The finished coil does not need filling, but if there is excess resin, then filling only reassures the operation of the coil, although it will not work without it.

Capacitors with a voltage of 1000 volts, capacitance from 0.1 to 0.47 microfarads. The larger the capacity, the more powerful the shocker is, but in return the frequency of discharges sharply decreases. An EPOX spark gap with a breakdown of 900 - 1000 volts; you can also use a reed switch or a homemade spark gap, which is made from a blown fuse.

It is advisable to use diodes of the KTs 106 series with a voltage of 5 kV, but it is possible to use any pulse diodes rated at 1000 volts, but then instead of one diode you need to install 5 diodes connected in parallel.

Power is supplied by two mobile phone batteries with a capacity of 1200 mA each. It is also possible to use nickel batteries with a capacity of 1000 mA or more.

Current consumption in peaks reaches up to 6 - 7 amperes, and overheating of the batteries is possible, so it is not advisable to turn on the shocker for more than 4 seconds. The field-effect transistor needs to be mounted on a small heat sink.

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